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TECHNICAL
MOUNTAINEERS
| Technical rock Boots
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Helmet |
| Harness |
1 Pair of Hinged-strap on
Crampons Ropes
Belay Device |
| Rappel pre |
Sock |
| Cordelette |
Personal Rack |
| Jumars |
Petzel Stop |
| Locking Carabinars |
Standard Carabinars |
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SPECIFIC HIGH ALTITUDE PROBLEMS:
Caused through the inability
of the human body to adjust to a rapid gain in altitude. Problems
range from mild cases of AMS, experienced to some extent by
most climbers, through its various forms to the often-fatal
PULMONARY & CEREBRAL OEDEMA. [HAPE & HACE]. The latter
being less common. Oddly enough young fit males seem to be
most badly affected by altitude.
Symptoms of AMS include, in the order
usually experienced, headache, nausea, vomiting, anorexia,
exhaustion, lassitude, muscle weakness, a rapid pulse even
at rest [+120/min], insomnia of the hands and feet and a reduced
urine output. Climbers with severe symptoms MUST stop ascending
and consider descending to a lower altitude. Often
a drop of as little as 500m and a stay of a couple of days
at the altitude will allow better acclimatization to take
place.
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Use of the drug DIAMOX can help prevent
or reduce the severity of AMS. With HAPE, additional symptoms may
be noticed shortness of breathe, even at rest, gurgling bubbly
sounds in the chest and sometimes a watery blood-tinged sputum.
Skin may be cold and clammy, finger nails and lips bluish. With
HACE, severe headache, hallucinations and lack of co-ordination
are additional symptoms.
Treatment must be immediate. DESCEND!
Even if it means walking down at night. The speed with which these
two conditions kill is often as little as 12 hrs from when the symptoms
first become apparent. If bottled oxygen is available, it should
be used.
Maintain a slow steady
pace whilst walking up. There is little point in trying to
out distance every one else for even at a slow pace, the time between
huts is seldom more than 6 hrs. Drink at least 3 Ltrs of fluids
each day. Dehydration, even mild, leads to a thickening of the blood
with increased possibility of PULMONARY EMBOLISM or a THROMBOSIS.
Urine color should be pale and the output copious.
EXPOSURE:
Or more correctly, Hypothermia
is the lowering of the bodys core temperature. Prevention
is the best course of action. Use appropriate equipment. Do not
allow oneself or clothing to become wet either from rain or perspiration.
When at rest, keep out of the wind. Treatment is simple and needs
to be carried out as soon as possible. If a hut or natural shelter
is not close by, a tent, bevy bag or similar protection should be
arranged to keep the victim dry. Remove all wet clothing and place
the victim in a sleeping bag (or two / three). If possible, another
person should be placed in the bag as well. Direct skin contact
is best. Once the victim is conscious, hot drinks will go a long
way towards boosting the moral. Frostbite, though unlikely to kill,
can result in water loss, through amputation, of the bodys
extremities such as fingers and toes. Equipment in the form of mittens
and balaclava, good footwear and keeping dry is 90% of the way towards
preventing the problem. Warning signs are severe pain in the affected
area followed by complete loss of feeling there. Color of the affected
area will be almost white.
SUN RELATED INJURIES:
As about 40% of the earths protective atmosphere is below
an altitude of 4000m, far less of the harmful low frequency ultra
violet light is filtered out, and the suns rays are much more
powerful, even through cloud cover. This can result in very rapid
burning of exposed skin. A preparation of 10% PABA in zinc oxide
cream, or a factor 25+-sun cream is recommended protection. Dark
glasses with side panels, or better still proper snow goggles, are
best worn at all times above 3000m, especially when the sun is out,
and are essential when crossing snow or ice, even in cloudy conditions.
Snow blindness is a very painful experience. Eye drops may help
though the only real cure is to keep eyes bandaged up for 24hrs
or more.
FEET PROBLEMS:
Blisters are usually a result of poor fitting, new or little used
boots. As soon as the hot spot is felt, stop, remove
the boot and cover the area in a zinc oxide tape, moleskin or gel
tape. If boots are even slightly too small, the toes will hit the
front of the boots and be badly bruised, particularly when descending.
Toe nails should be kept as short as possible.
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CUTS AND ABRASIONS:
Stop bleeding with direct pressure to the wound. If an artery
has been cut, a tourniquet should, if direct pressure is ineffective,
be applied above the cut. Note that the tourniquet should
not be so tight as to cut of circulation completely, for the
rest of the limb will start to die. Remove or loosen it every
15min. or so to see if bleeding has stopped or been reduced
to an acceptable level. Clean wounds and the surrounding area
with water and soap, preferably antibacterial. Usually it
is best not to cover abrasions and small cuts, but rather
to let them dry out.
TRAUMA:
Usually results from a broken limb or other major injuries.
Medication should not be given unless pain is extreme, for
the victim ability to co-operate or make decisions is
reduced, further more there is the risk that it may contribute
to depressing the vital functions. In all instances, if drugs
are given, record the brand name, amount and the time it was
administered - for reference by medical personnel later.
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FITNESS: Any
walker who suffers from a pulmonary or cardiac problem should be
particularly cautious about going up on the mountain. If there is
any doubt, consult a doctor. Normal preparation you should consider
making for a mountain ascent should include several long walks before
hand, with, if possible, some steep uphill sections. If possible
try to use the same foot wear that you intend to use on the mountain
and carry a light pack.
BASIC
FIRST AID KIT DURATION
| Drug |
Use and affect |
Side effect(s) |
| Aspirin and paracetamol |
Headache, fever and aches |
Minor stomach upset |
| Throat and cough lozenges |
Dry throat |
None |
| Sun block: 10% PABA or Factor
25+ sun block plus an Lip salve. |
Anti sunburn, apply 30 min,
before exposure. |
Possible allergic reaction. |
| Ophthalmic: Neo-cortef, (Hydrocortisome)
and Neo Mycin. |
One drop 3 times per day.
, Conjunctivitis snow blindness. |
None. |
DO NOT
USE IF A VIRAL INFECTION IS SUSPECTED
| Tincture of iodine,
Permanganate of potash. |
Sterilizing wounds. |
Stains. |
| Anti diarrhea:
Imodium |
2 tablets x 2mgs
for the first loose stool, Thereafter one tablet for each bowel
Movement. Max 8 tablets per 24 hrs. Stops Diarrhea. |
Affects digestion. |
| Mountain sickness.
Diamox |
125mg twice daily
from first reaching 3000m.Helpful in reducing the onset of HACE,
HAPE, and AMS. Reduces inter Ocular eye pressure and thus behind
the Eyes headaches. Speeds acclimatization. |
Increased urine
output. Peripheral oedema. Tingling pins and needles
in the Extremities. |
| Pain killers:
Sosogon |
Sever pain such
as broken bones. |
Sedation |
| Sutures |
Sever pain such
as broken bones |
Sedation. |
| Water purification:
Sterotabs Wait 30 minutes. |
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Taste. |
VACCINATIONS:
Please consult your doctor or immunisation centre for the relevant
vaccination requirements to the countries to which you intent to
visit. Yellow Fever vaccination is compulsory for most African countries.
We also recommend vaccinations for typhoid, tetanus, hepatitis,
meningitis, and cholera.
Malaria is endemic in most parts of Africa.
It is your responsibility to provide anti-malaria tablets and other
preventative measures. You should consult your doctor before your
departure. We advise the use of insect repellent containing DEET
and wearing long sleeved shirts and trousers at night.
A major first aid kit, suitable for expeditions
of between a week and three weeks duration might include additional
items such as Antihistamine tablets and cream, Tin fax cream (athletes
foot), a decongestant, broad spectrum antibiotic, sleeping pills
and even valium, a laxative such as duclax, codeine and lexis (diuretic
for treatment of HAPE)
Users
of all these drugs should receive instructions on their use, effect
and dosage.
MOUNTAIN RESCUE
The mountain National Parks are responsible
for the safety and (if required) the possible rescue, of all persons
on the mountain. In the event of an injury / accident, a report
to the park authority should be made. Take note: Visitors are FORBIDDEN
to walk alone in the National Park. If you do go off on your own
and a rescue is called out, you will be fined and presented with
a hefty bill for expenses incurred.
A ranger station has been established in the
Teleki Valley. It is manned at all times by up to four rangers who
have been trained in first aid and basic rescue techniques.
They have some medical supplies and are in radio contact with the
park gates and park HQ.
Marangu and other routes have sufficient radio
communications incase of any injury/accidents and rangers are trained
to attend to emergencies. Our fees include rescue fee BUT does not
cover your medical / hospital expenses [see our advise on the personal
travel insurance cover].
WEATHER &
CLIMATE
Mt.Kenya
& Mt. Kilimanjaro can, and is climbed at all times of the year.
If possible however, it is best to try to avoid the two rainy seasons
that may start in mid March and last through till mid June, the
so called long rains, and from late October through till the end
of December, the short rains. The driest times on the mountain are
usually January till mid March and again July through mid October.
Temperatures while
in the sun will be very comfortable with climbers often walking
up in a pair of shorts and a T-shirt. However once the wind picks
up and the clouds come in, the temperature at 4000m, may drop rapidly
to below zero. Here a night time temperature of around 10
degrees C. can be expected. Even at an altitude of 3000m on the
lower moorlands, a frost is often experienced. Summit temperatures
range from about 10 degrees C. in the morning sunlight to as low
as 19 degrees C. just before dawn. Time of year makes little
difference to the mean daily maximum or minimum temperature, though
when there is heavy cloud cover during the night, temperatures
tend to be a little warmer than when the skies are clear.
Prevailing winds are from the east and south,
and therefore those sides of the mountain receive the highest rainfall
up to 2500mm. Pa. At 3000m Northern slopes receive the least amounts;
1000mm. or so. As one climbs higher, so the amount of precipitation
every where decreases, and by the time one reaches the bases of
the peaks, it has fallen to below 700mm. Pa.
Typically, the daily weather pattern is such
that at dawn it is crystal clear indeed on both Mountain. Some 320Km.
to the south, is regularly visible from near Australian Hut and
from Pt. Lenana on Mt. Kenya. Soon after, as the ground warms up,
the air in contact with it, (thus heated), starts to flow up the
mountain and by 1000hrs, the clouds may have been down around 2200m.
in the early morning, have usually reached over 3000m. and by noon
the whole mountain is often completely enveloped in cloud. From
then until early evening, rain, snow dependant on altitude, can
be expected. In the evenings, as the temperature falls, the reverse
happens. The ground surface and air in contact with it gets colder
and so the air starts to flow back downhill. The cloud disappears,
starting from around the peaks, and by 2000hrs. they are usually
back below 3000m This phenomenon is known as an anabatic/ katabolic
effect. Highest wind speeds can be expected in the early morning
(downhill flow) and mid afternoon (uphill flow). For visitors who
are camping, select a site that will be protected from the anticipated
downhill flow at night.
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