07 DAYS MOUNT KENYA CLIMB TO NELION & BATIAN VIA NARO MORU - TECHNICAL/ROCK CLIMBING
This is a more direct route to shorten the days.
This option is if you wish to do rock and ice climbing to Point Nelion 5188m and Batian 5199M From Mid-December the best route to go through to the above peaks is 'NORMAL ROUTE' using top hut - Austrian Hut - as the base of the climb.
The route is rather complex and much of the climbing is not above grade III with difficult ice conditions the gate of the mists may be lv. An ice axe and crampons are a must. The time taken from Austrian Hut to Nelion if 7 to 8 hours and another 3-4 hours to Batian and return to Nelion. Clients are advised to spend a night a night at Howell Hut.
Day One
Depart Nairobi at 8.00 am and drive to Mount Kenya area to Naro Moru route. After picnic lunch, hike for 3 hours to Met Station 3300m for dinner and overnight.
Day Two
Early morning breakfast and there after ascend to Mackinder’s camp 4200m for the night. The walk takes 5-6 hours
Day Three
After breakfast hike to Austrian Hut 2 hours and spend the afternoon scouting the area and preparing for the Rock climbing of Nelion & Batian. Also you can attempt Point Lenana 485m. Dinner and overnight at Austrian Hut in Tents.
Day Four
Early morning at 5.00 am walk to the stem of the Nelion & Batian and start the rock climbing. The climb to Nelion takes 6-7 hours and the climb from Nelion to Batian return takes 3 hours. The night is spent at Howell Hut.
Day Five
This day you descend to Austrian Hut for the night, otherwise the day is reserved for if the weather is bad on day 04.
Day Six
Descend to Met station via Mackinders camp and spend the night.
Day Seven
Hike down t Naro Moru park gate and meet with the vehicle to transfer to Nairobi.
Alternative Option
Day One
Depart Nairobi at .00 and drive to Mount Kenya Naro Moru Park Gate. After picnic lunch and sorting out the equipment's, hike for 3 hours through the rain forest and reach met station 3300m for dinner and overnight. During the walk the porters will carry your bags and you will have your day packs.
Day Two
Early morning at 7.00 a.m breakfast will be served and thereafter start the hike to Mackinders camp. The walk takes you through the rain forest, heather zone and moorland vegetation for 6-7 hours. Picnic lunch will be served en route with dinner and overnight at Mackinders camp 4300m.
Day Three
Early morning at 2am if the clients wish they can attempt point Lenana 4985m and use it for acclimatisation and there after descend to Kami hut via American camp or after breakfast ascend directly to Kami hut from Mackinders camp without attempting point Lenana.
Day Four
Early morning at 5pm start from Kami Hut, where a 40 minutes walk below the foot of the North Ridge is made to the cross in a circle chipped on Rock. Climb straight up from the Marker and move right at 6m into the gully -IV inf. continue over easier rock until it is possible to scrabble for 90m up the gully to a step wall. An obvious crack brings one onto a large terrace beneath a third steep wall - 111 sup. Climb 6m up an easy gully on the left, traverse back into the center, then straight up - [111] sup. and scramble into the Amphitheaters. Scramble about 120m across this until it steepens, in the direction of Firmin's Tower, which is at the top left corner. Climb 25m to a wide sloping ledge [111], then traverse right along the ledge for 20m [111] until it is possible to gain the ridge on the left hand skyline. A m scramble brings one to the foot of Firmin's Tower. Climb the crack for 20m to where it breaks into two branches. Chimney up the right hand one for 15m to the top of a massive loose block - over looking the Amphitheater. Move left into the original chimney and continue up for m. Scramble for about 18m and up to the top of the Tower IV sup. Descend to the ridge and scramble along it for 60m until it steepens. Continue along the ridge for another 30m IV inf. Move up to an obvious ledge then traverse right to amphitheater [III]. Further scrambling brings one to the junction of the West Ridge where there is a bivouac site. Whilst it is possible to climb along the ridge it is easier and safer to traverse horizontally from the bivouac site for about 120m to Shipton's Notch. The rock in this area should be treated with care. This route is suitable for descent.
Day Five
The day is reserved for the attempt of the peaks incase the weather does not allow on Day 04 or if the client are slow in ascending.
Day Six
Descend to Shipton’s camp for lunch and there after continue the descend to Old Moses or Sirimon route for overnight.
Day Seven
After breakfast descend for about 2 hours and meet with the vehicle to transfer to Nairobi.
